Dick's Last Resort

Your server scribbles something rude on a paper hat and puts it on your head. The commentary on your order, your outfit and your general behavior follows throughout the meal. The hostility is a performance, and the better servers know when to push and when to ease off. You agree to it by sitting down, so go in expecting to be teased.

It is a national chain concept that works well in tourist markets, and Gatlinburg's busy Parkway suits it. Adults and teenagers usually have the best time. A kids' menu is available, but younger children may not enjoy the abuse, and some of the humor is aimed at grown-ups.

The Gatlinburg page lists hours of 11 AM to 11 PM Sunday through Thursday and 11 AM to midnight on Friday and Saturday. The phone number is 865-277-6953. Walk-in guests can join a waitlist online, and group reservations go through the restaurant's events page. Catering is available through ezCater.

The menu is American comfort food and bucket-style platters. Ribs, chicken and seafood buckets are the traditional picks, and a full bar supports the party mood. Expect the $$ price tier. The menu is posted on the restaurant's site as images, so check it there for the current lineup.

• Go with a group. The experience works better with friends who will play along.
• Let the hat happen. Fighting the staff is a losing strategy.
• Mind the volume. It is not the place for a quiet conversation.
• Outdoor seating is available when the weather allows, and it is a pleasant way to watch the Parkway.

The location is near the center of the main downtown strip, and walking is easier than driving. The free Gatlinburg trolley serves the Parkway, so you can leave the car at your lodging. After dinner, the evening crowd and the shops stay open late.

For a day in the mountains before dinner, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is at the edge of town. A parking tag is required for any stop longer than 15 minutes, and federal passes do not replace it.

If you want a calmer meal, other Gatlinburg restaurants offer a quieter pace, but for a night of laughs, Dick's is a reliable choice.